Jamcleat

Cascade

In addition to the fish pond, there is a cascade. Water in the large (50 gallon) pool at the bottom is pumped to the top pan (5 gallon) and cascades down the 3 cascade pan to the bottom. The pump for this set is about 150 G/H and sucks in a lot of stuff. After replacing the pump because of jams a couple of times, I came up with a filter system that seems to work. I used a plastic basket that you may be able to find in the same area of the store where the pumps are sold. The baskets were originally intended to hold the roots of water-plants together when they must be removed to clean the pond. I used the a square piece of plastic (cut from the bottom of a cat litter pan) to make a bottom. The bottom is loosely retained with a couple of rings made with wire, twisted to close them. The hose of the pump is punched through a hole cut in the bottom (now the top) of the basket. The trash filter on the pump acts as the final defense but the plant-basket filter provides a large area screen that is fairly fine. The only problem I have had is if it goes more than a week, the suction on the clogged basket filter flattens the basket. Regular maintenance is essential.

Pump exposed

I usually just leave this pump running when cleaning. Lift the pump and filter out of the pond. Detach the hose from the pump to free the basket-filter. Use a hose or brush to clean the filter. Use a hose or brush to clean the trash filter on the pump. Put the hose back through the hole in the basket and insert the pump outlet in the hose. Close the white lid, lower into the water and check the flow. Put the brick back on the basket-filter to keep the lid closed.

View of Pond

On our lot in a subdivision, I have 4 small artificial garden ponds. My wife likes the sound of falling water so 3 of the ponds have a pump to create a fountain or waterfall. As the water circulates, the stuff that falls in the pond eventually ends up trying to go through the pump.
I have spent a bundle of money over the years replacing pumps that have become clogged or jammed. In an attempt to avoid this, I have put filters on each of the pumps. The pump filters need periodic maintenance. I have discovered that during the spring, summer and fall, the right period is once per week. If weather does not permit doing it each Saturday, it can go one more week but no more. By the end of the second week, the filters are so filled with stuff that the pump is straining with reduced flow and there is the possiblility of jamming on something that would normally wash through.
The largest pond has a few goldfish. They winter over as it is warm enough here that the pond does not stay iced over. As the main problem with the filter and pump on this pond is brown algae, cleaning once a month is frequent enough in the winter.

Pump and filter components

This set up was purchased as a unit with a filter box, a pump, tube, assortment of fountain heads, coarse filter media, fine filter media, and something called bio-filter balls. I believe these are intended to provide a place where beneficial organisms can attach and aid with the chemical balance in the water. Since the garden pond is large and replenished with rain water, I have never been too concerned about the chemistry of the water. Except that if I do have to add significant amounts of tap water, I use a conditioner to control chlorine.
The spray head makes an a spray which is too large in height (it blows away) and size (lands outside the pond) if unregulated. There is an adjustment that allows some water to bypass the spray head to control the size of the fountain plume.
To maintain this pump, first turn off the power. The circuit has a switch at the deck.
Next lift the filter box out of the pond. Wire bails have been added to help with the lifting.

Wire Bails for lifting.

First remove the fountain pipe at the joint in the middle of the pipe just below the regulating valve. Gentle twisting may be required to get the valve to separate from the lower pipe.

Removing Filter Cover

Next remove the filter cover. A tab at each end of the filter cover keep the cover on the filter box. These need to be lifted slightly away from the box to release the cover. Inside you will find the coarse filter media (brown). Remove this layer. Use a hose sprayer set to “Spray” to wash all of the algae and leaf material out of the coarse filter. Wring the media to get the water out once or twice and rinse until the water runs clear. Repeat for the fine (green).
Underneath the fine filter media are the bio-filter balls.

Bio-filter Balls

Remove each of the balls and rinse it with the hose spray.
The spray fountain needs to have the top cover removed from the bottom part. This is done by gently unscrewing (top counterclockwise) until they separate. Inside you will see a labyrinth in the bottom to distribute the water and the holes in the top. Both of these tend to catch debris and need to be thoroughly cleaned. Make sure that all holes are clear. Poke them out with a toothpick if required. Re-assemble by screwing the top back on the bottom. Take extra care not to cross-thread. There is no need to screw it on tight, a bit more than a full turn is enough.

Fountain Head Detail

The pump is held into the filter box with suction cups. For weekly maintenance, you can just leave it in place. Rinse the box with the spray and empty the dirty water out. About once a month you will need to remove the pump from the box and clean it thoroughly. To clean the pump, insert and gently twist a screw driver in the vertical case split on the bottom on the end away from the intake and outlet. Gently slide the case apart to reveal the pump impeller. Clean any material from this area. There is normally no need to remove the impeller retainer.

If there is debris in thhttp://www.brafetishpage.com/blog/e pump impeller area, first, make sure the power is off.  Then rotate the impeller retainer counter clockwise until the tabs that retain it at the edges are clear of the case.  It may be necessary to pry it lightly to separate it from the bearing plate. plate.  The bearing plate has an o-ring around the edge.  Grasp the post in the center by the pump inlet and lift.  Help it with a screwdriver if required.  The pump impeller, shaft with a bearing at each end, and ferro-ceramic magnet can now be lifted out.  Clean everything.  Put the shaft of the magnet back in the motor.  Replaces the shaft retainer, taking care to center the bearing.  Do not force.  Slight pressure should re-seat the o-ring.  Replace the cover plate and rotate the tabs into the grooves in the case.

When the pump is clean, replace the cover and slide it to the stop.
Reverse the disassembly to assemble the pump and filter. Bio-balls, 4 in one end, 6 in the the other, fine filter, coarse filter, cover, bails. Re-insert the fountain pipe. Place the filter box on the bricks in the bottom of the pond and ensure that it is stable. Turn the power back on and check the fountain is flowing properly and that the plume is falling back into the pond.

The other night, my wife went to shut the Player off. And it would not go off. The push-on-push-off switch that has served faithfully for 25 years was stuck. She got it off by unplugging it. When I plugged it back in the next day, it did not seem to come on.
The Player is Radio Shack ™ Realistic ™ STA-2500 Digital Synthesized AM/FM Stereo Receiver. The advantage of this particular device is the variety of stuff and internal switching that it has. Enough connections for dual cassette tape, 6-channel mixer, Karoke center-channel suppression, phono turntable, CD player, computer audio feed, upstairs and downstairs speakers. It’s in there. All media, all the time. When the Player is down, it is…well, quiet.
I recorded a diagram of the colors and connections of the cables to all of the above then pulled the plugs.
I found the circuit diagram with the other documents. They were too small to read. I scanned them and blew them up to 4 times the size.
I then took off he covers. This thing is like an onion. 4 screws for the particle-board walnut-look end panels. 3 screws for the back edge of the top cover. 6 more screws for the aluminum front panel. 6 snap clips release the front panel lable layer. Then I can get to the 2 screws for the power switch. I get the switch assembly out. I cycle it a couple of times. I plug in the power cord being careful not to touch anything electric. Get radio over the headphones. Switch on. Switch off. Put it all back together. Don’t you just hate when you didn’t do anything but now it works.

We have one of those Carrier combination air conditioner and furnace units. This sort of makes sense since they share the same duct work. We had some trouble with the air conditioning side a few years ago and last year began having intermittent trouble with the furnace.

The symptom for the furnace trouble is that when the thermostat calls for heat, the inducer blower runs but there is no flame. At least no flame when you realize that you hear it running but there is no heat coming from the register. This has always occurred when there was precipitation and falling temperature. Around here that means fog forming or ice storm, usually at night. Not the best time to lose heat or work on the system. So far we have been lucky. If you smell gas, turn the gas off, turn the power off, and call a repairman. Otherwise Quick Fix: Turn the circuit breaker off. Wait 20 seconds. Turn circuit breaker on. The system seems to restart ok. This might be the best solution to get the heat back on. But it does not fix the problem.

This unit (Model number starts with 48SS. The next 3 digits are a capacity of the A/C unit) has an electronic circuit board that performs the starting and safety logic. When it detects an error, it displays an error code as a sequence of flashes of a red LED. It may display more than one code so count pulses and pauses until you get the same count twice. For example it could do flash-flash-pause-flash-flash-flash-pause-flash-flash-pause-flash-flash-flash-pause…. This would indicate errors 2 and 3 (if this were a possible condition). Understanding the error code is essential to pin-pointing the problem. But the errors are reset if you turn the power off. So if you can, leave the power on. If you smell gas, turn the gas off, turn the power off, and call a repairman.

In order to see the circuit board and the indicator LED you will need a 5/16″ socket to remove 2 screws at the bottom edge of the panel marked “Burner Control” on right hand side. If the label is gone, this is to the left of and around the corner from where the exhaust and gas line come out of the unit. After removing the screws, bring the bottom of panel toward you and allow it to slide down, out from under the lip at the top. The left side of the panel sits in a groove to provide a seal so there may be a bit of friction getting it loose.

The control board will be at the top left of the open compartment. Look for a red LED. If it is on solid, no error is indicated. If it is off, there is no power to the unit or the control board has failed. Call a repairman. If it is flashing, count the flashes and write them down. Replace the cover by inserting the left edge in the groove and the upper edge under the lip. Press the panel against the unit and start the screws. Tighten the screws. Reset the unit by turning the circuit breaker off. Wait 20 seconds. Turn circuit breaker on. Verify that the thermostat is calling for heat. If the unit does not start, you will need to call a repairman.

Longer term fix: The error code we saw was an 8. This indicates an “internal controller fault”. A web search for related problems suggest several things:

1. Check the circuit board above the 2 white squares. There are two resistors there. Charing may indicate that the circuit board has overheated.
2. Check for corrosion. This may affect the ground connection of the circuits. If there is evidence corrosion, you may need to clean it off to get a good connection. Examine the inside of the firebox (heat exchanger) with flashlight. If excessively corroded, you will need replacement. Call a repairman.
3. Remove debris from the control box. The burner(s) are located in the bottom of the box. While the circuit breaker is off, vacuum cob webs, wasp nests, leaves, etc. out of the control box.
4. Some units may have a “sail switch” to detect air flow. If one exists, check for free operation.
5. Other units have a Hall Effect sensor to detect rotation on the inducer fan motor. Google for or check this thread (scroll down to djken post) or themanual for instructions on how to test the Hall Effect sensor.
6. When you turn the circuit breaker back on and the unit restarts, check to make sure that the flame from the burner is induced completely into the hole in the heat exchanger before you replace the cover and tighten the screws.  Oversize flame or insufficient draft require adjustment.

Error codes for Carrier 48SS series

N.B.:

1. There is a 3-second pause between error code displays.
2. If more than one error code exists, all applicable error codes will be displayed in numerical sequence.
3. This chart is on the wiring diagram located inside the burner access panel.

A year ago last September, my wife found some Halloween decorations at a closeout table at Dollar Store.  They were wire sculpture cat profiles.  I used them to make a mobile.

But with the stormy whether that we have been having, the fishing swivel that I had used let go so Tuesday I replaced it with a new heavier #1 swivel.

Cat Mobile

Saturday, my son and I were cutting up the accumulated brush and fallen limbs from 3 years of dry weather. I try to keep the pile small so it is not unsightly. But with the drought that we have had, I did not feel it was safe to burn. I had started on it a year or so ago when my old McCulloch chainsaw went bust.

Bad news: New Homelite chainsaw in hand, we were cutting off small lengths and burning to make a pile of coals to grill some hot dogs.  We had got about 20% of the pile done, and actually about all that we could do in that afternoon, the exhaust note changed from a motor sound to a sharper, harder sound.  I thought at the moment that it sounded like a large model airplane.  My son pointed to an object on the ground where I was cutting.  I quickly stopped the saw.  It seems the screws had come out of the muffler and the muffler had fallen off.  No wonder it sounded like a model airplane.  It was just like a 2-stroke model airplane engine with no muffler.  As in a model airplane engine the combustion chamber is open to the world when the piston clears exhaust port.  Big noise.  And the screws were nowhere to be found in the rubble and stubble under the brush pile.

That was on Saturday.  I was busy Sunday and Monday but had Tuesday off.  I called the Homelite toll-free help number.  The menu options had changed to better serve the customers.  The number one option on the first menu was “…to get the correct fuel-to-oil ratio for your power tool”. Option 2 was anything else.  The second menu was “Order parts or supplies press 1″ and “Talk to a representative press 2″.

There was a hold as all representatives were “serving another customer”.  But that hold was less than a minute.  Shana was very helpful.  I gave the model and serial number.  She responded that “If it has been less than 30 days, you can take it back to Home Depot.  If more than that, you will need to take to an authorized service location”.  Now that is some information system.  That indicates that that lot of tools was sold through Home Depot.  She further suggested that she get my zip code and gave a choice of two locations for Authorized Service, both about 10 miles away.

Next to find the receipt.  My wife went through a pile of recent receipts.  Not Found.  Then she remembered that that receipt was on a magnet on the side of the refrigerator.  It turns out that I had bought the saw 32 days before.  Receipt and map to 5 Points Mower Repair, I headed out.

Home Depot is about 2 1/2 miles away.  I took the saw in to the returns desk, setting off the loss prevention alarm on the way.  A young woman named Meg listened to my story and asked what I wanted to do.  I suggested exchanging just the saw since I had used the oil and written in the book.  She suggested that I just get a similar saw off the shelf and exchange the whole thing.  So that is what I did.  She typed in the return reason in the register and gave me back the old receipt. About 3 minutes elapsed time. Homelite customer service and Home Depot return experience are pretty Good News!

My neighbor has a hobby restoring classic British sports cars.  I have seen his work on his own cars and on jobs that he has done for others.  The work is always top-notch.  He does take the time to do the job right.  He has a fine web site too.

John Burton Works on Triumph

John drives his Austin Healey 100.

I had planned to do an article about the successful resuscitation of my 14 year old McCulloch chainsaw.  The bad news is that the operation was not successful and the patient is mostly dead.  I asked my friend and former neighbor Doug if he had any ideas.  Doug restores antique small engines and knows a lot about these things.  His advice was throw away the McCulloch and get a Homelite.

So that is what I did.  Hurricane Ida blew through here with a bit of wind and a lot of rain.

Dead Pine Down

A dead pine tree blew over.

Austree Toppled by Huricane Ida Rain

And an Austree that had previously been laid low by ice apparently became waterlogged at the top because it fell down after the rain had stopped.  They needed to be cleaned up.  And with a clear direction on the chainsaw front, I went looking for a Homelite.

Lowe’s did not have them.  They had Paulen (budget) and Husqvarna (pricey).  I had used a neighbor’s Paulen while my saw was waiting repair and with the Homelite recommended, decided to keep looking.  WalMart does not appear to carry chainsaws.  Home Depot had Homelite and Echo.  The price to replace the 14″ saw was $99.  The 18″ saw was on sale at $130. A $20 savings.  Since the saws now have a nose guard that must be removed if you are cutting through wood longer than the blade, and I had sometimes been frustrated by the 14″ blade, I went with the 18″.

Homelite 18"

The end result was I was able to clean up the mess and spend two days carrying stuff to the brush pile.

Cut pine tree after chain saw purchase.

No, not the TPS report from Office Space but the throttle position sensor in my daughter’s 1993 Olds Ciera.
The Check Engine light was on last time she was here. We read it out with the Actron CP9135 scan tool . The code 22 indicated that the voltage on the TPS was low. Since this is a 1993 Oldsmobile Ciera, replacement was probably indicated.
She brought the part with her for this visit.
The TPS on this 3.3 MFI engine faces down toward the upper radiator hose pipe. No clearance for a normal screw driver. If we had had a flat ratchet offset style driver, that would have been ideal. Lacking that, after disconnecting the battery and removing the air cleaner and its mounting plate, we used a needle-nose vise grip to break the 2 screws loose. Then used a #1 Phillips tip in a holder to get them out. Replacement was a matter of holding the screws in the TPS while aligning the paddle that is pushed by a similar paddle on the throttle shaft. Starting both screws by finger, running them in with the mini screwdriver and snugging them with the vise grip. Reconnect the battery and test. Put the air cleaner mounting plate and air cleaner back on. Clamp the air inlet hose where the strap had broken and done.

The Flower Flyer started as a re-build.  My wife had found a rusted coaster wagon in someone’s trash and dragged it home.  I built a body for it and painted it green.  Phillip made a stencil and painted Flower Flyer on the sides.  It was a pretty thing.

But the outdoor storage was hard on it and it developed dry rot.  Time for a new body.  I was sure that I had a picture of it but cannot find it.  After I took it apart, I took a picture of the body as it was.

Flower Flyer body